Cow Green reservoir above Cauldron Snout
This shot was taken near the end of our adventurous hike last Tuesday. I’ve started off with it because I love how it makes us look like we’re trekking across the Arctic. The two small figures in the background are Paul and his friend Dylan. Despite the impression given by the photo, we were not in Arctic conditions. In fact, it was nearly 50F! But what views!
Towards Widdybank Fell
The hike began in upper Teesdale a few miles from Middleton-on-Tees and not far from High Force, the falls we visited a few weeks ago. We parked by the side of the lane near a farm, crossed the stile, and headed off into a breath-taking countryside. The panorama was unlike anything I’d ever seen. We were surrounded by the gentle snow-streaked slopes of the Pennines. To the east, the wide valley of Teesdale itself sloped away towards the lowlands and to the south the snow covered slopes of the higher mountains occasionally peeped from behind the thick cloud cover. Widdybank Fell(on the left side of this photo), bearded with large expanses of broken rock, loomed ahead of us.
Our adventurous companions!
We kept good pace since we knew that the walk was going to be a long one for the boys. Still, they fell behind us quickly as they couldn’t resist jumping into the patches of snow that we periodically encountered. Diane and I said little: we were too captivated by the countryside. Personally, I was keeping a wary eye out for Vikings, as well! Eventually we reached the Tees and started to skirt along its bank.
Diane had just finished saying how much she appreciated the gravel trail we were following when it turned into the sort of waterlogged grassy trail with which we are more familiar. Our progress slowed somewhat as we figured out the best way to walk around patches of deep mud or ford small streams. Paul and Dylan were wearing their new wellies and so they just marched happily through it all.
Yipes!
Then even this path gave way to a very narrow trail that hugged the bank of the Tees. We continued single file until we came upon the first of two major rock fields. It was time for some mountaineering! This field of scree stretch right up to the top of the mountain and continued for about a thousand feet or so. Most of the rocks were also wet and slippery which made the crossing a little treacherous. Paul and Dylan, of course, thought they were in heaven and darted across the field happily.
Fortunately, the valley again widened enough for us to move a little away from the river and make better time towards the falls. Unfortunately, the land was much marshier and Diane soon found herself with waterlogged shoes. You know how women just love things like that!
Any signs of orcs?
The views remained as remarkable as they had done, but now we were well into the nature reserve. By English standards, the countryside felt wild–like a scene from The Lord of the Rings or Narnia before the snow had completely melted–and there was not even any sign of the ubiquitous English sheep.
It was now well past lunchtime, but we decided to press on until we reached Cauldron Snout. There, we’d enjoy lunch, Diane could dry out her socks and change into dry shoes, and we have a small rest. To our horror, though, this required another rock crossing that, though narrower than the last, in some ways was harder to cross. Again, the boys loved it. In fact, Paul for the first time in his life would later tell me that he really enjoyed the walk! There is hope for the lad!
Cauldron Snout
The rocks were the last hurdle to cross and shortly thereafter we reached our object, the very impressive Cauldron Snout. The pedantic point out that its not really a falls but a cateract. Whatever you want to call it, the Snout is impressive, in some ways more so than the more famous High Force, and sadly none of my pictures do it justice.
As planned, we sat down toi enjoy a much earned lunch. Even though my pork pies had been cruelly flattened during the walk and were pretty poorly made, they had that thrilling flavor that only comes after a lot of hard work and in such surroundings. The only thing missing was a cup of tea. I must see about getting a decent thermos.
By now it was getting on, so we didn’t sit for lunch too long. The next leg of the walk was not for those suffering from vertigo: a narrow, rocky trail along the side of the steep hill by Cauldron Snout. I took the lead and Diane the rear and we started to pick our way carefully up towards the top of the hill. Really, it was safe enough, but walking on a narrow trail with roaring water below you on one side and with children to watch behind you wakes you up a bit.
Cow Green reservoir
Once we reached the top we were in for a very strange view: an enormous concrete dam. I felt like I had walked from Tolkien into some depressing furturistic world. The dam was massive and in the middle of nowhere. The path took us towards this, eventually ending at a narrow, paved road that would take us back to the car. Behind the dam lies Cow Green reservoir which in the mist and the snow looked for all the world like a coastline in Canada or Greenland. Just beyond the dam I stopped to take the picture that heads this post.
The remaining two and half miles was uneventful, though beautiful. We were in slightly more civilized territory now and we encountered people on their bikes or walking the short and easy way to the Snout. We eventually arrived at the car, muddy, warn out, and ready for something hot. But I was exceptionally happy. I’d finally done the sort of walk I’ve been waiting to do since we came to England.
Next, the Lake District…
